Frequently Asked Questions about... ...Subfloor Preparation
...Underlayments
...Installation
...Adhesives
...Problem Solving
Back to top of page SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Should I test for moisture in the substrate
before installing any flooring?
Yes. All flooring manufacturers recommend
some type of moisture testing and standards that must be met
before the installation of their products. For example, resilient
flooring and carpet manufacturers recommend the calcium chloride
test. Wood manufacturers may recommend other means of testing.
If recommended limits are not met, failure of the flooring installation
may result. At this point, the flooring and the adhesive manufacturer
are no longer responsible for the failure of their product due
to moisture.
Keep in mind that moisture testing cannot
predict long-term moisture conditions. Tests are only indicators
of moisture conditions at the time they are run.
What is the most common moisture test
method?
The calcium chloride test kit, which is
a quantitative test, is the method recommended by most, if not
all, resilient flooring manufacturers. This test, now an industry
standard, ASTM F-1869, must be run in all areas where there is
a concern for moisture. Calcium chloride tests are normally run
for 60-72 hours depending upon the manufacturer. The results
are expressed in terms of pounds per 1000 square feet per 24
hours. To install resilient flooring, the results must be 3 to
5 pounds/1000 sq. ft/24 hours or whatever the flooring manufacturer
recommends. Calcium chloride test kits can usually be purchased
from flooring and sundry supply distributors.
When installing wood underlayments,
what precautions should be taken?
Use only the underlayment boards recommended
by the flooring manufacturer for the type of flooring being installed.
Wood underlayments must be acclimated by placing them in the
area where they will be installed for at least 24 hours before
they are installed. Panels should be lightly butted and not filled
or flashed unless the board manufacturer specifically recommends
filling the joints. Differences in thickness of wood panels should
be corrected by sanding. If not acclimated, the boards will expand
and contract at rates different from the subfloor over which
they are installed and this will increase the risk of tunneling
and/or ridging. Filling or flashing joints between panels may
also increase the tunneling and/or ridging over these joints
and especially in conjunction with lack of acclimation.
Why should I test for alkali and what
should I do if it measures above 9?
pH is the symbol used in conjunction with
a number to indicate acidity or alkalinity. The numbers on the
pH scale are 1 to 14 with 7 being neutral. Below 7 is acid while
above 7 is alkaline. Testing is done using a wide range pH tape
and distilled water. Alkali testing material is now found in
all calcium chloride test kits. The allowable pH range for the
installation of flooring is normally between 5 and 9. Flooring
adhesives are designed to be alkali resistant up to a pH of 9.
Above 9, the alkali becomes excessive and can actually burn your
skin and start to dissolve concrete aggregate. Alkali comes to
the surface of concrete with water and once the water evaporates,
it leaves the alkali salt residue. If alkali is too high, it
is best to use clear water or soda water to clean the surface,
allow the concrete to dry, and retest. Traditionally, acids have
been used to "neutralize" the concrete, but acids may
leave a residue which is as detrimental to the flooring installation
as the alkali. Excessive alkali may cause white deposits at tile
joints and when excessive, may actually corrode or burn the edges
of the tile. It can build up under flooring causing bumps to
occur. Alkali may eat away at adhesive causing failure of the
bond and damage to the flooring itself. Alkali can also cause
dusting of the concrete surface. Alkali testing can only show
the amount of alkalinity at the time the test is run and cannot
be used to predict long-term readings.
What is meant by grade level?
Grade level, when speaking of resilient
flooring, is where the flooring will be installed in relation
to the ground around the building. A suspended or above-grade
subfloor is one which has a minimum of 18" of well-ventilated
air space beneath it. Normally, this would be over the basement,
but in some homes, this could be over a crawl space. An on-grade
subfloor is one which is in direct contact with the ground or
over a fill which is in direct contact with the ground. A below-grade
subfloor is one which is partially or completely below the ground
surrounding the building and is in direct contact with the ground
or over fill which is in direct contact with the ground.
Can I install a new floor covering over
old adhesive residue?
When installing new resilient tile,
tile adhesives
can be used over old adhesive residue as long as the adhesive
residue has no ridges or puddles evident and what remains is
a thin, smooth film. When installing vinyl-backed sheet flooring,
we recommend the removal of 100% of adhesive residue. With all
other floors, the adhesive must be removed so 80% of the overall
area of the original substrate is exposed. However, if the adhesive
residue is asphalt cutback, as an alternative to removal, you
can use a cementitious underlayment mixed with water.
Can I use an adhesive remover to remove
adhesive residue from a subfloor before installing a new resilient
floor?
Many adhesive removal products contain
solvents that leave a residue within the subfloor. This residue
can negatively affect the new adhesive and bleed through the
new floor covering. Floor covering warranties do not cover instances
where existing subfloor conditions cause damage to the flooring
or installation failure.
I have existing adhesive residue on
my substrate and would like to install a new felt-back sheet
flooring. Why must 80% of the original substrate be showing through?
All flooring expands and contracts. When
a new flooring is installed over existing adhesive residue, it
expands and contracts as usual, and can actually move the existing
adhesive residue. Depending on the bond of the adhesive residue
to the substrate, the flooring may pull away from walls and apart
at seams.
Why shouldn't you install flooring directly
over paint or other coatings on a subfloor?
The bond of the flooring to the subfloor
is only as good as what you bond to. If you bond to old paint,
sealers, polish, or other foreign matter, you are dependent upon
the bond of that material to the subfloor to hold the flooring
in place. Since we cannot determine how strong that bond may
be, it is best to bond directly to the substrate.
What is meant by porous and nonporous
in relation to subfloors?
A porous substrate is one which is capable
of absorbing water or liquid, such as concrete or wood. Liquid
beads up on the surface of nonporous substrates which are typically
existing resilient flooring. If there is any doubt as to porosity
of the substrate, it can be checked easily by placing a few drops
of water on the surface. If the water is quickly absorbed, the
substrate is porous. If the water beads up and remains on the
surface, the substrate is nonporous.
What is lightweight concrete?
Lightweight concrete is concrete made with
lightweight aggregate (shales, clays, pumice, etc.) or with the
addition of chemicals which foam and produce air spaces in the
concrete as it hardens. This should not be confused with products
which are manufactured and used as floor fills and toppings.
What is a sleeper-constructed subfloor
and why cant I install flooring over this?
This is a wood subfloor installed over
an existing concrete subfloor on or below grade without 18"
of well ventilated air space. Concrete on or below grade will
have some moisture in it due to its proximity to the ground.
When there is not enough ventilation, moisture will build up
causing not only installation failure, but possible rotting of
the wood. Since suspended concrete today may contain excess water
due to steel pan construction, wood over concrete on any grade
level is not recommended.
What is APA trademarked plywood?
APA trademarked plywood is plywood underlayment
approved as suitable for the installation of resilient flooring
by APA - The Engineered Wood Association.
Back to top of page UNDERLAYMENTS
What is meant by pot life?
Pot life is the amount of time a product,
which must be mixed, remains workable in the original mixing
container. This is generally applicable to two-part epoxies and
powder underlayments.
Why do flooring manufacturers recommend
not smoothing true expansion joints with any type of underlayment
product?
True expansion joints are those placed
between separate pours of concrete. These joints are designed
to absorb the movement of the concrete and are normally filled
with elastomeric fillers which absorb the movement of the separate
pieces of concrete. If an underlayment is placed across or in
these joints, the movement of the concrete will cause the underlayment
to break up or will push it out of the joint. Additionally, any
flooring placed across these joints will break or crack with
the movement of the concrete. Expansion joint covers, which are
designed to span these joints, should be used in these areas.
What does it mean when a specification
states that commercial and institutional environments must have
a compressive strength of 3,500 psi for floor fills, patches,
and toppings?
Compressive strength is expressed in pounds
per square inch. This means the material can withstand 3,500
pounds per square inch without breaking. Because
of the concentrated floor loads that exist
in commercial and institutional environments, concrete must be
higher in compressive strength than for residential applications.
I am installing over existing vinyl
composition tile. Can I float the existing tile with a powdered
underlayment product?
We do not recommend covering an existing
vinyl composition tile installation with a powdered underlayment.
The risk is in the existing tile breaking loose from the substrate.
However, powdered underlayments are recommended for patching
and repairing small areas of damage or broken tile in an existing
VCT installation.
What is an embossing leveler and why
do I need to use one?
An embossing leveler is a specially designed material for leveling embossing
in existing resilient flooring before the installation of a new
flooring. Embossing is the textured-like design in a floor. If
this design is not smoothed and leveled, it will show through
the new flooring installation.
Does the use of an embossing leveler
render an existing resilient flooring porous?
No. Embossing leveler fills the embossing
and levels it with the surface of the flooring. It does not cover
the surface of the existing resilient flooring. Therefore, the
surface remains nonporous and directions for installation over
nonporous surfaces are the ones which should be used.
What is the purpose of latex when using
powdered underlayments?
Whether added as a liquid or in powdered form, latex adds resiliency
to the underlayment so it does not break up with a limited amount
of deflection. Latex also improves the bond of the powdered underlayment
to the substrate and increases flexural strength of the powdered
underlayment over wood and metal substrates. The use of a latex
primer on a porous substrate improves the bond of the mixed underlayment
or adhesive, but does not add any additional properties to the
powdered underlayment.
I used an embossing leveler over an
existing resilient floor and still have bumps and ridges showing
through my new flooring. Why?
You may not have completely filled in the embossing
with the embossing leveler. When using an embossing leveler the product fills in the
low places or embossed areas of the existing flooring. If the
embossing is deep, two layers must be applied. Once the first
layer is done, you need to determine if the leveler is even with
the surface of the flooring. If not, then another application
is required.
Back to top of page INSTALLATION
Why cant I install a new tile
floor over an existing tile floor in my basement?
Tile over tile is not recommended on a
floor below grade. A basement is below grade and concrete below
grade will almost always have moisture in it. A single layer
of tile allows any moisture in the concrete to escape through
tile joints. When you place new tile over existing tile, you
cover the tile joints and cut off the escape route for the moisture.
This traps the moisture beneath the tile and can cause loosening
of the old tile as well as the new tile.
Why must sheet flooring be rolled when
it is installed?
Rolling pushes the flooring down into the
adhesive and flattens the adhesive ridges. This assures contact
with the adhesive and also assures the adhesive ridges will not
show through the finished flooring. Rolling also pushes air out
from beneath the flooring between the ridges left by the trowel
notches. This significantly reduces the amount of trapped air
which may cause bubbles in the finished installation.
Why must all materials be conditioned
before installation?
Vinyl flooring is stiff when cold, flexible
when warm. Vinyl flooring that has been conditioned at the recommended
room temperature has better installation characteristics. All
materials expand or contract when atmospheric conditions change.
In order for the flooring to expand or contract with the subfloor,
it must be conditioned to the same atmospheric conditions.
Back to top of page ADHESIVES
How should I protect my carpet until
the adhesive cures?
Traffic on a new carpet installation should
be restricted for a minimum of 24-48 hours to allow proper adhesive
cure. Premature traffic can cause installation failure. Exposure
to water from cleaning and other sources should be restricted
for a minimum of 30 days.
What is meant by open time?
Open time is the amount of time recommended
by the manufacturer for the adhesive to set before it is covered
with the flooring. Open time is affected by temperature, humidity,
and porosity of the subfloor. Placing sheet flooring into the
adhesive too soon may cause the flooring to bubble. Placing tile
into the adhesive too soon may cause the tile to move and adhesive
to ooze up between the tile joints.
What is meant by "working time"?
Working time for tile and engineered wood
is the amount of time from when the adhesive is set until the
flooring will no longer bond. Working time for sheet flooring
and carpet is the amount of time from when the flooring is laid
into place until all fitting and cutting must be completed. Working
time is affected by temperature, humidity, and porosity of the
subfloor. Placing flooring into the adhesive after the working
time has passed will result in a failed installation as the flooring
will not bond.
What is meant by freeze-thaw stable
in relation to adhesives?
Freeze-thaw stable adhesives are not as
prone to cold weather damage as other adhesives, but they must
still be treated with care. They should be shipped in heated
trucks and stored in above-freezing temperatures. Most freeze-thaw
stable adhesives can be thawed if the temperature has not dropped
below 10° F. Below that temperature, they can be damaged
too badly to be used. If a product has been frozen at above 10°
F, it often can be used after thawing at 72° F for 12 to
24 hours. NEVER APPLY HEAT DIRECTLY TO FROZEN PRODUCTS. Some
adhesives are not affected at all by freezing. These are usually
epoxies or solvent-based products. To ensure proper handling
and performance, all adhesives should be stored at room temperature
above 65° F for at least 24 hours before they are used.
What does the CRI Green Label mean?
A product that features the CRI Green
Label identifies that product as a low VOC adhesive. Only those
adhesives that do not exceed the rigid test criteria of CRIs
Indoor Air Quality Adhesive Testing Program are authorized to
display the label.
The Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) is the
national trade association for the carpet and rug industry. The
membership is comprised of manufacturers and suppliers representing
94% of all carpet produced in the United States.
How important is the use of the recommended
trowel?
Very important - this is the most common
mistake made during installation. Most flooring adhesives are
applied with a notched trowel. The size of the notching is important
as it controls the amount of adhesive applied. Notches which
are too large spread too much adhesive. This can cause excessive
indentations to show through sheet goods and trowel mark show-through
or bleeding at tile joints. Using too much adhesive with some
flooring can cause swelling and buckling where the adhesive is
applied. Always check the adhesive label for the proper notching.
What does "dry to the touch"
mean?
Dry to the touch means when you place your fingertips
lightly on the adhesive ridges, no adhesive transfers to them.
I just purchased a can of adhesive,
and when I opened it, I found it very thick and stringy. Is there
something wrong with the adhesive?
Generally, when adhesive becomes very thick or heavy
and stringy in the can, it is no longer usable. Sometimes this can occur
when the adhesive is well beyond its shelf life. In a rubber-based product , the product may have been frozen and thawed.
Try stirring the adhesive as in some cases one freeze-thaw cycle
will not harm the product. Freezing does not hurt the bonding
characteristics - just the handling characteristics. If the adhesive
is trowelable after stirring and does bond the flooring,
there will most likely not be any future problems.
What is meant by Next Generation?
Environmentally compatible products are
being requested more frequently by customers. Our Next Generation
products meet those customers needs. These products are
formulated to be environmentally compatible, yet continue to
provide the working and handling characteristics required of
a floor covering adhesive. Next Generation products are:
- Either low in VOCs (less than 150
g/l, SCAQMD) or have no VOCs (calculated at 70(F, SCAQMD)
- Nonflammable
- Ammonia-free and low odor
- Contain low or no organic solvents
- Contain no reportable hazardous substances
(as per current regulations)
I spread tile adhesive 2 hours ago,
and the recommendations say open time is 1 hour or until dry
to the touch. The adhesive is still wet. Why?
If a larger notch trowel than recommended
is used, too much adhesive is spread, and this will increase
the amount of open time required for the adhesive to be dry to
the touch. If there is moisture in the subfloor this too can
cause retarded setting of the adhesive. If the controlled climate
is not in use in the building where the tile is being installed,
and the outdoor temperature and humidity are high, the setup
time is greatly increased. This will especially happen on hot,
humid summer days or rainy days. When the adhesive is spread
on days like this, moisture can condense on the surface of the
adhesive, severely slowing the setup.
While the use of fans to circulate air
in the room may help, it is important to remember not to place
the fans so the air blows directly on the adhesive. In most cases,
if the adhesive has a long working time, it is possible to let
the adhesive set overnight and install the tile the next morning.
Back to top of page PROBLEM
SOLVING
What is meant by "telegraphing"
or "show-through" and what causes this to occur?
Telegraphing or show-through is when the
irregularities, imperfections or patterns of the substrate are
visibly transmitted through the flooring. Possible causes of
this are:
- Improper trowel notching was used (too
large, too far apart, irregular)
- Subfloor was not cleaned properly
- Subfloor was not properly prepared and/or
patched
- Non recommended underlayment boards were
used
- Embossing leveler was not applied properly
- New flooring was applied directly over
heavily embossed existing flooring
What causes a clicking/crackling sound
when walking over a resilient floor?
This can occur when tile has not conformed
properly to the subfloor. When flooring is installed, it is recommended
you acclimate the flooring to the area in which it will be installed.
It is also recommended the area be 65° F or more. These temperatures
will allow tile to conform when it is laid onto the floor and
pressed into place. If the installation area is cold, and/or
the tile is cold, or if the substrate is not flat, the tile will
not conform properly. When you walk on tile, you are pushing
it down into the adhesive and, if the tile is not conformed,
you are pushing it into contact with the adhesive which causes
the clicking/crackling sound. To fix this you can usually heat
the area for at least a day and then roll the tile using a 100
pound roller. Another cause of this type of sound is the installation
of new underlayment boards over old adhesive residue. To prevent
this, you can put felt over the old adhesive before installing
the new boards.
What is adhesive bleeding and what causes
it to occur?
Adhesive bleeding is the undesired migration
of the adhesive at the joints of tile to the surface. If a black
adhesive has been used, then the bleeding will appear black.
If a light-colored adhesive has been used, it sometimes appears
as a buildup of dirt at the joints. This can be caused by:
- The use of too much adhesive (improper
trowel used)
- Placing tile into the adhesive without
waiting the recommended open time
- Moisture migrating through the substrate
- Installing over incompatible sealers,
curing agents, asbestos encapsulants, polish residues, etc.
- Use of solvent-based adhesive removers,
paint thinner, and other solvents
- Use of no-rinse strippers within the first
two years of installation
In order to remedy the situation, it must
be determined what has caused the bleeding to occur.
What causes alkali (white deposits)
at tile joints?
White, salt-like particles at tile joints
are normally an indication moisture has carried alkali to the
surface of the flooring. This condition is not usually noticeable
in open areas where there is a lot of foot traffic but can occur
under furniture and in corners where there is no traffic. Mopping
with clear water will keep the alkali from building up at tile
joints. Alkali can cause serious damage to flooring so all precautions
should be taken before installation to make certain it will not
be a problem. Testing for moisture and alkali should be done
before any resilient flooring installation takes place on concrete.
Tile, installed over concrete on grade
in a converted warehouse, has brownish deposits coming up between
the joints. What could be the cause?
Most likely, the concrete had a metallic
hardener used and due to moisture coming up through the slab,
the metallic flakes are rusting. The adhesive, which probably
softened due to the presence of moisture, mixes with the rust,
and bleeds to the surface of the tile at the joints as a brownish
deposit.
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